Search "best D-class cars Forza Horizon 6" and you'll notice something strange: almost nobody has actually written the list. OverTake put it bluntly in their FH6 class coverage — "you are perhaps wondering where the D-class cars list is, and the answer to that is simple: we will not be making one since in the game, you start racing immediately in C-class" (Luca Munro, OverTake.gg). They're not wrong about the starting point. But they're leaving money on the table, because D class absolutely gets raced in FH6 — the official Festival Playlist runs themed D-class Seasonal Events every series, D is where the cheapest and most characterful cars in the game live, and it's a genuinely fun touge and drift bracket on Japan's tight roads. This is the guide the big sites skipped.
Here's the one thing you must know before you copy any tier list you find: FH6 shifted its class letters down. A Toyota GR Supra that reads a hefty 616 PI shows as A class; a Lamborghini Huracán EVO at 761 shows as S1. That means D class in FH6 is roughly 0–400 PI (per the ForzaLabs car database), not the "up to 500 PI" band that older Forza Horizon 5 content still repeats across the SERP. If a guide tells you D goes to 500, it's leaking FH5 data — ignore it. Let's get you the right cheap weapon for the right D-class event.
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Quick answer: what are the best D-class cars in FH6?
TL;DR — the short list. D class is FH6's lowest bracket (0–400 PI) and ForzaLabs analyzes around 91 D-class cars. It isn't part of the mandatory early campaign — you're dropped straight into C — but the official Festival Playlist runs D-class themed championships (things like "Hot Hatch – D Class" and "Cult Cars – D Class"), so having a maxed D car in the garage is worth real Playlist points. For touge and drift, go light and rear-drive: the 1991 Honda Beat (283 PI, ~15,000 CR) and the 1985 Toyota Sprinter Trueno AE86 (376 PI, ~30,000 CR) are the standouts. For straight-line/road, the 1968 Ford Mustang GT 2+2 Fastback is the fastest stock D car ForzaLabs ranks (394 PI). For pure handling/technical, the 1990 Mitsubishi Minicab Time Attack (166 PI) is ForzaLabs' D-class handling king. For cheap fun, the Wuling Hongguang Mini EV costs just 5,000 CR (100 PI). Build every D car right to the 400-PI ceiling for events — but never a single point over.
Here's the fast reference before we get into the why:
| You want… | Best D-class pick | PI | Why it works | Where to get it |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Best D touge / technical | 1985 Toyota Sprinter Trueno (AE86) | 376 | Light RWD, huge corner speed | Autoshow (~30,000 CR) |
| Best D drift / kei | 1991 Honda Beat | 283 | Mid-engined featherweight, instant direction change | Autoshow (~15,000 CR) |
| Best D road / straight-line | 1968 Ford Mustang GT 2+2 Fastback | 394 | Fastest stock D-class (ForzaLabs speed rank) | Autoshow (~113,000 CR) |
| Best D handling | 1990 Mitsubishi Minicab Time Attack | 166 | ForzaLabs' D-class handling champion | Autoshow |
| Cheapest way in | Wuling Hongguang Mini EV | 100 | 5,000 CR novelty runabout | Autoshow (~5,000 CR) |
| Off-road / dirt (role) | Jeep Wrangler / VW Baja Bug | — | Traction + travel on loose surfaces | Autoshow / Auction House |
What does "D class" actually mean in Forza Horizon 6?
D class is FH6's lowest performance bracket — below C — and it maps to roughly 0–400 PI in the community car databases (ForzaLabs). That number is the single most important fact in this article, because there's a trap waiting for anyone who trusts muscle memory: FH6's displayed class letters do not line up with the old Forza PI bands. In FH6 the in-game car cards show the Toyota GR Supra reading "A 616" and the Lamborghini Huracán EVO reading "S1 761" — pairings that would have belonged to completely different classes in Forza Horizon 5. The whole scale shifted down, so D is 0–400, not "100–500." Every low-quality guide still parroting the 500-PI figure is quoting a five-year-old game.
So is D class even worth touching? Yes — but understand what it is first. You do not progress through D in the campaign. FH6 drops new players straight into C-class events and keeps you there until you earn your Yellow Wristband, which is exactly why OverTake declined to write a D-class list at all. What they missed is the Festival Playlist: the official playlist page runs specific D-class Seasonal Events — themed championships like Eclectic Domestics, Hot Hatch and Cult Cars, all restricted to D class — and those pay Playlist points toward your Series and Season rewards just like any other event. On top of that, D is home to the game's cheapest cars, its kei cars and its novelty machines, which makes it the natural home for free-roam fun, touge, drift and joke races on Japan's tightest roads.
The only reliable way to confirm a car's class is the in-game class filter in the Autoshow and the official FH6 car list on forza.net — with 550+ cars in the game, guessing gets you the wrong class for the event you're trying to enter. And that leads to D class's version of the universal FH6 mistake: over-building. Every D-restricted event enforces the 400 ceiling literally. Push a car one point into C and the game quietly refuses to let you enter that D event. Build every D car right up to 400 for maximum performance — then stop.
What's the best D-class car for touge and drift?
This is where D class earns its keep. Japan's mountain roads make Touge Showdown (the head-to-head touge mode inside Horizon Play) one of FH6's signature experiences, and the winning formula for the D-class rounds is light, low-power and controllable — precisely what the cheapest cars in the game do best.
The standout is the 1985 Toyota Sprinter Trueno GT Apex — the AE86 — a 376 PI, rear-drive classic that costs about 30,000 CR and does roughly 128 hp / 0–60 in 8.6 seconds stock (ForzaLabs). It's the textbook touge car: light, balanced, RWD, and endlessly rewarding on tight, technical roads. Right behind it is the 1991 Honda Beat, a mid-engined kei roadster at just 283 PI and ~15,000 CR that barely breaks highway speed stock but changes direction so instantly it carries corner speed heavier cars simply can't match. For a D-class touge or Drift Zone, a maxed AE86 or Honda Beat will out-drive almost anything else in the bracket.
For sliding and Drift Zones specifically, the rule is the same one that governs every Forza drift car: rear-wheel drive, front (or mid) engine, low weight and manageable power — not top speed. Both the AE86 and the Beat fit perfectly, and Dexerto's D-class tier list also flags the Nissan 240SX as a drift-friendly option (we'd confirm its exact class on ForzaLabs before an event, since drift cars sit right on the C/D line). One practical note: in Horizon Play's touge and mixed-class events the required class rotates each round, so keep a tuned D car ready rather than scrambling to build one when the mode picks it.
What's the best D-class car for road racing and straight-line?
D-class road events reward a different profile — you want a car that actually carries speed down a straight, and at 0–400 PI that's rarer than you'd think. ForzaLabs' D-class speed ranking is topped by the 1968 Ford Mustang GT 2+2 Fastback at 394 PI — a big rear-drive American classic that sits right at the top of the class and pulls harder in a straight line than the kei cars ever will. It's the pricey pick of the bunch (around 113,000 CR from the Autoshow), so if you want the same straight-line character for less, the 1987 Pontiac Firebird Trans Am GTA (382 PI, ~25,000 CR) and the 1965 Ford Mustang Coupe (388 PI, ~52,000 CR) are cheaper RWD alternatives that still live near the top of D.
The broader rule for D-class road racing is grip and consistency over raw power: the field is close enough at this PI level that a planted, predictable car beats a peaky, hard-to-launch one every time. Build to the 400 ceiling, focus your upgrade credits on tires and handling, and protect your launch — these are heavy old cars with soft gearing, so the run to turn one is where D-class road races are won and lost.
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What's the best D-class car for handling and off-road?
If the track is tight and technical rather than fast, raw grip matters more than speed — and here D class hides a genuine oddity. ForzaLabs crowns the 1990 Mitsubishi Minicab Time Attack (#269 ATTC) — a 166 PI kei van built for hillclimbs — as the class's handling champion. It's a joke on paper and a weapon in practice: absurdly light, planted, and unbeatable through a D-class technical section once you've tuned it to the cap. If you're chasing a D-class PR stunt or a twisty seasonal championship, it's worth a look.
For off-road and dirt, D class flips the priorities to traction on a loose surface and suspension that soaks up jumps. Dexerto's D-class tier list points to the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon and the Volkswagen Baja Bug as the off-road picks, and the role fits — both are the kind of high-travel, planted machines that hold a dirt line while lighter cars get bounced offline. We'd verify each sits under 400 PI on ForzaLabs before entering a strict D event (Dexerto lists the role, not the exact PI), but as a rule for D-class cross-country: weight and travel beat finesse — pick the truck or the buggy, not the sports car.
And if you just want the cheapest possible way into D-class fun, the 2022 Wuling Hongguang Mini EV costs a laughable 5,000 CR at 100 PI — the cheapest car in FH6 and a genuinely funny joke-race and free-roam runabout.
How do you build a fast D-class car (and pay for it)?
The recipe is the same across every surface: buy a well-rounded car, then upgrade it right up to 400 PI — the top of D — and no further. Focus your upgrade credits on the parts that matter for your event: grippier tires and handling parts for road and touge; off-road tires, suspension and a rally drivetrain for dirt. Keep one eye on the PI readout so you stop the instant you hit the ceiling. There are no magic tune codes needed to be competitive in D; a sensible build maxed to the cap beats a fancy setup that's left the car under-tuned or accidentally bumped into C. If your car won't enter a D event you think it qualifies for, you've gone one upgrade too far — drop a part and it'll qualify again.
All of that runs on Credits, and because D class is cheap, it's the fastest place to build a stacked "one car per surface" garage — a touge AE86, a straight-line Mustang, a handling Minicab — without draining your balance. If you'd rather skip the grind and jump straight to a full garage and a healthy CR pile, that's exactly what our Forza Horizon 6 services are built for:
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Frequently Asked Questions
What PI is D class in Forza Horizon 6? D class is FH6's lowest performance bracket, roughly 0–400 PI in the community car databases (ForzaLabs). Note that FH6 shifted its class bands down versus older Forza titles — a car showing 616 PI reads as A class, and 761 reads as S1 — so ignore any older guide that says D goes "up to 500 PI"; that's Forza Horizon 5 data. Always confirm a car's class with the in-game class filter.
Is D class even used in FH6, or do you start in C? Both are true. You do not progress through D in the campaign — FH6 drops you straight into C-class events until you earn your Yellow Wristband, which is why some outlets skip a D-class list entirely. But the official Festival Playlist runs D-class themed Seasonal Events (like Hot Hatch and Cult Cars, restricted to D class) that pay Playlist points, and D is home to the cheapest cars, kei cars and best touge/drift machines — so it's very much worth building for.
What is the best D-class car in FH6? It depends on the job. For touge and drift, the light rear-drive Toyota Sprinter Trueno AE86 (376 PI) and Honda Beat (283 PI) are the picks. For straight-line road racing, the 1968 Ford Mustang GT 2+2 Fastback is the fastest stock D car ForzaLabs ranks (394 PI). For pure handling on technical tracks, the Mitsubishi Minicab Time Attack (166 PI) is ForzaLabs' D-class handling champion.
What's the cheapest car in Forza Horizon 6? The 2022 Wuling Hongguang Mini EV Macaron at just 5,000 CR (100 PI) is the cheapest car in the game — a great budget novelty for D-class free-roam and joke races. The Honda Beat (~15,000 CR) is the best cheap car to actually build for D-class touge.
Why won't my D-class car enter a D-class event? You've almost certainly over-built it past 400 PI. FH6 enforces the cap literally — one upgrade too many pushes the car into C class and locks it out of D-restricted events. Remove an upgrade to drop back under 400 and it'll qualify again. Build to the top of D, never a point over.
Do I need tune codes to be good in D class? No. A well-rounded D-class car built sensibly to the top of the class is competitive across road, touge and drift. Prioritise the right tires and handling parts for your surface, keep the car under the 400 PI ceiling, and you don't need anyone's shared setup to win.
